Auguste, a new Italian restaurant in Hackney, London, is a fascinating blend of old and new. Named after a clown, it pays homage to the iconic Edward Hopper painting, 'Soir Bleu', capturing the essence of a bygone era in hospitality. The restaurant's owners, Mike Bagnall and Dylan Walters, have transformed the space from its previous iteration, Papi, into a modern, hip, and irreverent Italian spot. The menu showcases small plates and skewers, with a particular focus on the central Italian region of Abruzzo. The arrosticini, tiny mini kebabs grilled over a furnacella, are a standout feature, offering three varieties of meat with a choice of dipping sauces. The live-fire craze in London hospitality is evident, and Auguste embraces this trend with its unique take on traditional dishes. The short, frequently changing menu features bite-size potato rösti with blue cheese cream, cured sea bream with a puttanesca salsa, cappelletti in a clear broth, fresh asparagus with wild garlic cream, and a chicken saltimbocca wrapped in prosciutto and sage. However, the meal felt more like a collection of loose ideas rather than a coherent dinner, with some dishes lacking in execution. The arrosticini, while delicious, were a little too pink, and the dessert options were underwhelming. Despite these minor shortcomings, Auguste shows glimpses of greatness, and its loyal fan base may not even notice the changes. The restaurant's ambiance, with white tablecloths and Campari cocktails, adds to its charm. Overall, Auguste is a must-visit for those seeking a unique dining experience, offering a blend of traditional Italian cuisine and modern twists.
